The formulation of retinols have come a long way over the last decade. You may have once heard that retinols are not strong, and not worth the money. It’s better to get the more active prescription product Retin-A (tretinoin). Today, many medical skincare lines carry their own retinols, and both the prescribing doctors and the patients swear by the results. So why the change in thinking?
The answer is simple – formulation, chemistry, particle size, and delivery systems. Melanopeel®’s retinols have undergone extensive R&D into the making of safe, effective and potent retinols. A better understanding of how products are able to interact with the skin has allowed us to produce retinols with better cellular binding capacity, and better bioavailability. This for you, translates into a more effective product that goes to it’s target cell more efficiently.
The shift towards retinols was driven by consumer desires – patients wanted effective non-prescription creams without the hassle of going through a pharmacy.
This was made possible by encapsulation technology able to bundle retinol into smaller particles capable of binding to retinoid receptors on the skin’s cells.
Skin care physician and formulation expert Dr. Desmer Destang explains how our high potency (HP) retinols work.
“It is true that retinol needs to go through a conversion step to become the active form called retinoic acid (Retin-A is an already active isoform of retinoic acid that binds directly to cell receptors). Tretinoin (Retin-A) , a prescription medication is undoubtedly the most effective retinoid in aesthetic dermatology. There are stronger retinoids than tretinoin, but these have applications more for skin pathologies, severe sun damage, and very severe acne.
Encapsulated retinols are an excellent choice, with obviously good bioavailabilty, as is seen by consistent improvement in skin texture. The stability of such retinols is also enhanced by the process since it reduces molecular degradation.”
“Retinols and retinoids are forms of vitamin A derived from beta carotene. Retinol gets converted to retinaldehyde, and then to the really potent and active final product retinoic acid. Retinol will therefore take a bit longer to work than pure Retin-A, but the end results are both excellent when you use a high potency retinol.
A great advantage of HP retinol is that there is less skin irritation than when using Retin-A. That said, you should still expect some skin flaking and increased sensitivity to UV light since the product is working. Sunscreen use is needed just as with a prescription retinoid.”
“An advantage of the HP retinols by Melanopeel® is that they are free of parabens and mineral oils which are often found in Rx tretinoins. The Melanopeel® HP’s therefore have the safety advantage of being free of parabens, and they are also boosted with other free-radical fighting antioxidants which further protect the skin.”